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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2009, 06:50 PM
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Default Dying Grass Issue

Hello, I'm relatively new to taking care of grass, so forgive me not knowing some of the basics. Actually when I lived in the country rarely did we have a problem, but now in the city there seems to be issues.

My grass seems to be turning all brown and dying in large patches. It could be a coincidence, but it seems to appear as though it only does this in patches that are not protected by the shade from my trees.

It was raining a LOT here not too long ago, so I don't know... Maybe the soil needs some chemical balancing in areas?

I suppose I can try and get an image shot of what it looks like for better explanation in the near future. My problem is I don't see the neighbours wattering their laws, so I am not so sure it's a lack of water.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-02-2009, 03:54 PM
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Hey obsolete

If you are sure that it's not from lack of water, perhaps there is too much water in there
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:20 PM
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I have looked inside the shed here, and I see the previous owners left behind a heavy bag. Looks like some sort of limestone soil-sweetener. So.. either their garden, or the lawn must be acidic and they were trying to neutralize it. Now the question is which :P

Maybe it really doesn't have any effect here at all either.
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:24 AM
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Maybe you can try to put a little of that "soil sweetener" to a small area to see what will happen to your lawn. Observe for a couple of days.
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Old 08-17-2009, 05:48 PM
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Well, I tried that, no difference. Or perhaps it made things worse :P

I decided to take a picture just to show how bad it's getting. It's spreading.. and spreading... and makes me wonder if it's a disease? I will try to soak the whole thing really, really, deep and see what happens. I just don't know. Perhaps just a fertilizer problem?

What started off as something small is turning into an epidemic here and I'm not sure what is the cause.

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Old 08-30-2009, 11:08 AM
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Default lawn problems

it looks as though its been neglected for a while,I suggest you scarify it(take out the dead thatch) the aerate it,and depending what season it is in your part of the world put on the appropriate fetilizer and water well
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Old 09-04-2009, 07:26 PM
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Ugh, I don't know what else to do then.. This is spreading even worse. I decided to turn up the water-bill a little, and no change. I even did the aeration... no change. That ph neutralizer.. no change.

I just don't know. Guess I"ll give up, and put winter-fertilizer on it in October then see how things go next Spring? I never seen such craziness before.
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Old 10-01-2009, 05:45 PM
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Thumbs up Dying Grass Issue



Obsolete have you tried to recondition the lawn looks like akaline problem or salt , but can be fixed , the best soil builder is worm castings here are some facts :
Worm Castings have been known as the best item possible to make all plants to grow better. New applications have been researched by several universities and have been field tested for confirmation. Any landscape or growing application will benefit immensely from the use of worm castings.

Improved Growth: Extensive university testing has been performed by Ohio State, Cornell University, UC Davis, and the Australia SIRO to prove the results with worm castings. These tests have shown improved flower size, bloom quantity, quality, and color. Fruit and vegetable tests have resulted in yield improvements from 15% to 57% as well as improvements in taste and appearance.

100% Organic: The general public has come to correctly support non-chemical answers. Worm castings have been known since the time of Charles Darwin's research as the best way to healthy soil and healthy plants and 100% organic. A common cry is for solutions that are not chemical based so we don't risk potential health problems.

Non-Toxic: The skull and cross bones found on agriculture chemicals is absent on worm castings because they are non-toxic. Parents do not need to fear for their children or pets with worm castings.

Can't Burn: Since worm castings are 100% organic they don't have the salts found in synthetic fertilizers. The absence of these salts means that there is no possibility that plants can be damaged using worm castings.

Odor-Free/Odor Elimination: Worm castings are the only animal waste that does NOT have a manure odor. Worm castings have the fragrance of rich healthy soil.

Odor Elimination: Testing has shown that worm castings are very quickly effective at odor elimination. Mix 20% worm castings with composted dairy manure, horse manure, chicken manure, or compost and all objectionable odors are eliminated within eight hours. You can now use these effective organic fertilizers without offending odors. Worm castings are more efficient and cost less than half than activated charcoal.

Fungus Control: Four major university research projects and testing has shown that the complete soil food biology found in worm castings will quickly control fungus problems. Within a few weeks plants suffering from fungus problems will show significant improvement that lasts. All ground fungus is quickly brought under control. Nitrogen is released in the fungus control process providing added plant growth. (This is published research information and can be given to buyers in a generic form).

Insect Repellency: Testing has shown that several microorganisms found in worm castings stimulate the organisms in plants that work as repellants for a large array of insects. The repellants increase to a level that the insects find the plant nectar distasteful. The insects then leave. The effectiveness has been seen for aphids, white fly, and other bugs that feed on the plant juices. Plants tested included but are not limited to: begonias, various citrus, hibiscus, various house plants, morning glory, roses, solanum, and zylosma. The number of individuals who have successful applications now exceed 1,500. This research is on-going. A patent application is in process as well as a bio-pesticide registration.

Fire Ant and Common Ant Repellency: Ants can detect the natural repellency organisms when they walk over worm castings. They find the worm castings highly objectionable. An immediate negative reaction can be seen by ants when worm castings are applied. The ants leave areas covered with a ‡ inch layer but will begin to walk across the layer after a few weeks. Apparently some change happens to the top layer. Red fire ants will leave their nests within 24 hours of a single application. We are working with the top research scientists for the application on red fire ants. The ant revulsion has many applications.

How Does the Insect Repellency Work?
My best understanding and explanation is:

The relationship between the enzyme chitinase and insect repellency is well documented from academic research. (Extensive research work is now being done to genetically alter plants to produce a high level of chitinase). Using worm castings is a non-toxic, and organic methd of doing the same without genetic alteration.

The enzyme chitinase will dissolve chitin and chitin makes the exoskeleton of a bug. If the level is below detection then it is not toxic to the bug and they can NOT detect it. Increase the level of chitinase above this level and the bug is repelled by the nectar of the plant rather than attracted to it. The bugs reaction to chitinase is similar to our reaction to sour milk. One drop of sour milk mixed into a glass of sweet milk and you will drink the glass with no negative reaction. However, mix in three tablespoons and no one has to convince you to not drink the milk.

Using worm castings triggers the chitinase production level. At this point I can't name the trigger organism. I have a theory that I am researching. I should be able to name the organism soon. Applying the worm castings to the soil at a 10% - 20% mix results in the level of internal chitinase increasing. The 10-20% mix comes from research by Ohio State, Subler, Edwards, et al, regarding the optimum mix for optimum plant growth. Applying a ‡ inch layer to the top of a plant equates to 10%. A 1 inch layer to 20%.

The detection level for the bug is in the range of 1 million cfu/dwg. We have tested plants covered in white flies. The level of chitinase producing organisms is usually less than 300,000 cfu/dwg. One particular hibiscus tested at 260,000 cfu/dwg prior to application. This 10 foot tall hibiscus was covered in white flies. Three months after application the white flies had left the plant totally. The chitinase level had increased to 670,000,000 cfu/dwg.

The speed of repellency is in direct relation to the size of the plant. Spider mites will leave house plants in about two weeks. Aphids will leave roses in less than two months and it will take about three months for all of the white flies to leave a ten foot tall hibiscus.

It appears that this mechanism works for nearly every plant. I have included a list of the plants tested. All of the plants listed were tested by 11 nursery managers/staff and two garden writers. All tests to date have shown success. (These tests were NOT performed by California Vermiculture). We have performed our own tests and shown efficacy have relied on tests by others as support data. Nearly every one of these testers scoffed at the possibility of worm castings being able to repel insects.

The manager of Steven's Nursery told me that he could not accept insect repellency. I agreed that the idea sounded outrageous but offered samples for his personal testing. He had Joseph Coat roses that had been plagued with aphids for over six years. He said that there was not a single spot on these roses bigger than the size of a dime NOT covered in aphids. He applied a 1 inch layer in the watering basin. In less than two months, all aphids were gone. He has now applied worm castings to all of his roses. He now has not a single aphid anywhere.

Nursery managers have asked their clients to apply worm castings and observe the possible pest repellency effects. The number of people who have seen success in their own tests exceeds 1,000. I have asked how many of their clients have complained of no positive results. Not one complaint for lack of results has been made to date except for Gina Wright.

You read the article by Gina Wright in Decor & Style. You need to know the whole story. In a later article, Gina reported that her aphids were all gone but the white flies were still evident though greatly reduced on her hibiscus and abutilon. I contacted her to do some testing to determine why she still had white flies. She reported back that she had spoken too soon. All white flies are now gone.

I have registered the use of worm castings for insect repellency as a patent. The patent search shows no one else has made this claim. Dr. Scott Subler says he is familiar with the industry and no one else has tied together this effect. Dr. Subler also did Not believe my radical reports but now says this is the first ever, organic, non-toxic method to provide for insect repellency. Dr. Subler are working together to assmble the needed academic documentation. We should have several research projects underway before the end of the year.

I am working with the EPA Biopesticides to get registration as both a fungicide and a pesticide. The director and his staff are very supportive. I should have registration for non-food applications before the end of the year. Food applications will take longer
need more info email me or call me 970-359-2535
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Old 01-18-2010, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obsolete View Post
Well, I tried that, no difference. Or perhaps it made things worse :P

I decided to take a picture just to show how bad it's getting. It's spreading.. and spreading... and makes me wonder if it's a disease? I will try to soak the whole thing really, really, deep and see what happens. I just don't know. Perhaps just a fertilizer problem?

What started off as something small is turning into an epidemic here and I'm not sure what is the cause.

that picture looks horrible as compare to imagining the whole of the garden was lush green previously...i really hope that you find the cause and its cure before it gets too late...i dont know the reason myself as i m new to this field but what i can see i m sad at that for you...
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