How to Care for Aloe Vera Plants

by blair

Aloe Vera plants are not only attractive houseplants but also have a long history of possessing wonderful healing properties. People use Aloe Vera to help soothe minor burns, cuts, scrapes and abrasions. Aloe Vera’s healing sap is added to creams, lotions and first-aid salves. People take aloe orally in the hopes of helping to treat many diseases including diabetes, asthma and arthritis. You don’t need to buy Aloe Vera to enjoy the soothing benefits; you can easily grow your own.

What is an Aloe Vera Plant?

Aloe Vera plants are semi-tropical succulent perennials that are often mistaken for cacti, but are actually members of the lily family. The plant originated in Northern Africa. Today, the Aloe plant can be found growing in the most southern states such as Texas and Arizona. The Aloe plant is also known by the common names of “burn plant” and “Lilly of the desert,” among others.

Aloe plants have the physical characteristics of very thick, tapered, spiny or serrated leaves. It can be found in many sizes, including miniature varieties (one inch!) and larger ones where the individual leaves extend up to 4 feet. When used topically, it is the inside of the aloe leaves, or the sap, that is used in ointment and salves.

Growing Conditions for Aloe Vera

Aloe Vera plants are semi-tropical plants and can only be planted outside in areas of the country where there is no threat of frost, or in USDA zones 10-11. If you live in an area in this zone, place your Aloe Vera plant in full sun or light shade. It will need to be placed in soil that drains well. If you live in a cooler area, you can still place your Aloe Vera plant outside during the warm summer months. It will need full sun and semi-frequent watering. You can let the soil dry out completely between watering.

Buying Aloe from a Garden Center

Because they are so popular, you can find aloe Vera plants at many garden centers, nurseries, big lot centers and even grocery stores. There are some things to keep in mind when choosing a plant from an indoor garden center. Always buy plants that look healthy and avoid the following:

  • Do not buy plants that have brown, yellow or spotty leaves.
  • Check the bottom of the plant and pot carefully; if roots are growing out of the bottom, it is a sign that the plant has been in the pot too long and is root- bound. It is best to choose another plant.
  • Check the plant leaves and soil carefully for pest and insect damage. Do not buy plants that have obvious insect damage.
  • Avoid buying plants that are dropping leaves.

    • Caring for Aloe Plants

    Aloe Vera plants are easy to care for: they need lots of sun, warmth and a minimal amount of watering.

  • Place your plant in a sunny, consistently warm location away from drafts.
  • Do not over-water your plant. Give it a good watering every couple of weeks. Let the soil dry out completely before watering again. Overwatering is probably the number one reason people are not successful growing Aloe Vera plants. Using soil that drains quickly (sandy, gritty soil) will help ensure your plant does not sit in overly moist conditions.
  • Look closely at stems and leaves for any signs of insects or disease.
  • Finally, look at the pot and soil. If roots are growing through the drainage holes or are seen at the soil surface, the plant has probably outgrown its pot. If you choose this plant, special care will be needed when transplanting into a larger pot.

    • Other considerations for Aloe Plants

  • Aloe Vera plants can be toxic if ingested by small animals. If you have a cat or dog be cautious and aware of plant placement.
  • When you bring your plant home from the garden center keep it away from other houseplants for a couple of weeks until you are sure it does not have any diseases or pest infestations.
  • Fertilize your plant on a yearly basis, in the spring, with a 10-40-10 fertilizer.

    • Using Aloe

    One of the benefits of growing Aloe Vera plants is that you have immediate access to its wonderful soothing benefits. If you receive a mild burn or abrasion simply break off a plump outer leaf from the plant, cut it lengthwise and scoop out the contents inside. You can crush the contents of the leaf and apply this “paste” to your burn or abrasion for relief.

    To see how to Aloe Vera gel is acquired, check out this video:

    { 0 comments }

    Growing Sweet Corn in the Home Garden

    by blair

    You can buy fresh sweet corn in season at a farm stand or supermarket. So if you have a small garden, you may want to skip a corn crop and grow vegetables that take up less space. That would be the practical thing to do, but you would be missing out on an incomparable culinary delight. As a veteran gardener put it, “Fresh corn on the cob picked from your own garden and steamed right away for four minutes is delicious like nothing else.” Whether you grill it, steam it, boil it, or eat it raw, the key to outstanding sweet corn is to eat it within minutes of picking.

    Corn is not the easiest crop to grow. Besides taking up a lot of space, it’s a heavy feeder, needs continual watering during the heat of the summer, and is susceptible to a number of insect and disease problems. But if you decide to grow it, following these tips will help make your crop a sweet success.

    Corn Growing Tips

    1. Choose a sunny spot in your garden to grow your corn.

    2. Start with a soil test from your cooperative extension service. A soil test will tell you what you need to do to make your soil right for growing corn. Amend the soil according to the soil test results, preparing the soil about six inches deep.

    3. Select varieties of sweet corn that grow well in your area. Your cooperative extension can tell you which of the hundreds of varieties are best for your climate and are resistant to the local common pests. For a steady supply of corn plant varieties that mature at different times.

    4. Wait until the soil reaches at least 50 degrees F to sow the seeds. Plant the seeds every 12-15 inches in rows 30-36 inches apart. Corn is pollinated by wind; for good pollination, plant the corn in blocks rather than long rows. Water after sowing.

    5. Fertilize when the plants are 12-18 inches high. Control weeds with mulch or hoeing, but be careful not to damage roots if you hoe.

    6. Keep watering and keep an eye out for insects and diseases. Consult the websites listed below to help you identify and treat problems.

    7. Ears are ready to harvest when the kernels are tightly packed and a milky substance leaks out when punctured with a thumbnail. This is usually about three weeks after the silk emerges. You have only a short window of time to harvest at this stage.

    8. To harvest, grasp an ear firmly, bend it down and pull it down with a twisting motion.

    9. Now run to the kitchen and cook it right away!

    Want to learn more about growing corn?

    Corn is an interesting and complex plant. The more you know about it the better your crop will be. Learn as much as you can from these and other reputable sources:

    Illinois is corn country, and the University of Illinois Extension has good advice on growing corn.

    Mother Earth News discusses the different types of corn for the home garden and how to grow them.

    Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service has a comprehensive factsheet on growing sweet corn.

    Sweet corn growing tips

    Lynne Lamstein gardens in Maine and Florida and is currently working on a sustainable landscape. She has a degree in ornamental horticulture from Temple University.

    { 0 comments }

    How to Grow Spinach

    by blair

    Photo courtesy of Sbocaj at Flickr.com.

    Spinach is an edible flowering plant from the goosefoot family and was native to Asia. Spinach is a popular vegetable loaded with nutritional value and considered by nutritional experts to be a “super food”. Superfoods are foods that are known to help reduce cholesterol, the risk of heart disease and cancer. Spinach is high in vitamin K, Folate, Vitamin A, C, and Beta Carotene. It also contains iron, calcium and is a great anti-oxidant.

    Spinach can be prepared in a variety of ways including both cooked and raw. It is a very hardy cool-season vegetable that grows well in the home garden and can be planted at multiple times for successive harvests (both in spring and fall).

    Conditions for Growing Spinach

    Spinach is cool season vegetable that can tolerate colder weather and frosts. Spinach needs full to part-sun and moist, organically rich soil. Spinach does not grow well in highly acidic soils and performs best with a pH range of 6.3-6.8. Adding lime to your soil may be necessary. To determine your soil conditions prior to any amendments, have a soil test performed. Your local University Extension office can perform a soil test.

    Planting Spinach

    Spinach is a very cold-hardy plant and can be sown directly into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. In southern states, spinach seedlings or seeds from the prior season may begin growing again in early spring, even with snow still on the ground! If you sow successively (every few weeks) you can enjoy your spinach over a longer period of time. Seeds should be planted about 1/2 an inch in the soil and spaced about 2-4 inches apart in rows 18-24 inches apart.

    It is best to sow freshly purchased seeds, and not seeds saved from the last growing season. Sow about 15-20 seeds per each linear foot of soil. Water the seeds well after planting. If your soil has a high level of organic matter, fertilizer is not necessary; if not, a fertilizer high in nitrogen should be mixed into the soil during planting. Once the plants start to grow, you can thin them to about 4 inches apart. Placing top mulch down will help to conserve moisture.

    Care for Spinach Plants

    Spinach should receive about an inch of water per week. If there has been little rainfall you can supplement by hand watering. As your spinach grows you will probably need to thin the seedlings, unless you are harvesting the plants at the same time (as well as the entire plant) Be careful not to disturb the other plants roots as you pull.

    Weed as necessary but, again, be careful not to disrupt the fragile and shallow root system of the spinach. Adding a side dressing of nitrogen every 2-3 weeks will help ensure a healthy crop with deep green leaves.

    Harvesting Spinach

    Spinach takes about 40-50 days to mature. Your individual preference will also determine when you harvest the leaves. Some people prefer to eat smaller leaves, others larger. If you do not harvest the entire plant, pick the outer leaves first. The inner leaves will continue to grow and can be harvested later.

    Spinach will not keep for long after harvesting. The best time to eat them, both for flavor and nutrient value, is right after picking. Be certain to wash the leaves well before eating. Spinach can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days (wash and dry them first) if you do not eat them right away.

    Spinach Diseases and Pests

  • Downy mildew and other fungal diseases
  • Blight disease, also called cucumber mosaic disease. Planting disease resistant types will prevent this.
  • Aphids
  • Leafminers: Adult females will poke holes in the leaves to feed on sap. Their eggs are left on leaves. The larvae that hatches days later and feeds on the plant leaves, eventually making them inedible. There are both organic and chemical treatments for leafminer control.
  • Caterpillars, including cabbage loopers, armyworms, and cornear worms. Caterpillars eat and destroy the spinach leaves. Inspect your plants closely for infestations. If the numbers are small, you can physically remove the worms and dispose of without further treatment. If the numbers become larger, there are both organic and chemical pesticides available to use.

    • Varieties of Spinach

    The University of Illinois horticulture department’s website, Watch Your Garden Grow, recommends trying the following varieties:

    Crinkled-Leaf

    Bloomsdale Long Standing (48 days to harvest; thick, very crinkly, glossy dark green leaves)
    Winter Bloomsdale (45 days, tolerant to cucumber mosaic virus, slow to bolt, cold tolerant, good for over-wintering)

    Hybrid Savoy

    Indian Summer (39 days; semi-savoy; resistant to downy mildew races 1 and 2, tolerant to spinach blight)
    Melody (42 days; lightly crinkled; resistant to downy mildew, mosaic; good spring or fall)
    Tyee (39 days; dark green; heavily savoyed; tolerant to downy mildew; spring, fall or winter)
    Vienna (40 days; very savoyed; medium to long-standing; tolerant to downy mildew races 1 and 2 as well as spinach blight)

    Plain-Leaf

    Giant Nobel (43 days; large, smooth leaves; long-standing).

    Plain-Leaf Hybrid

    Olympia (46 days; slow to bolt; spring, summer harvest).

    Want to learn more about spinach?

    Check out these helpful resources:
    Growing Spinach
    Spinach Recipes

    { 0 comments }

    How to Kill Weeds The Eco-Friendly Way

    by libba

    Why Weed Killers

    It’s become a tradition for gardeners faced with weed problems to pull out the herbicide spray and cover the unwanted weeds in chemicals, effectively poisoning the weed to death. But there are plenty of people who are looking for ways to kill weeds without all the harsh chemicals.

    If you like to grow plants organically, or want to avoid the side effects of herbicides, there are plenty of natural weed-killing remedies that date back generations and are just as effective at their job. After all, our grandmothers didn’t have all the chemicals available to them, and they grew lush, weed-free gardens as well as we can now.

    Help the Earth with Non-toxic Weed Killers

    Chemical weed-killers have a huge list of drawbacks. They’re expensive, harmful to other plants, pets and children, and most of all, they can leach into our water. When you use an herbicide and it rains soon after, all those chemicals end up in storm drains heading straight out into natural water supplies.

    Herbicides and pesticides have been responsible for fish kills and algae kills. Alternately, they settle into the soil and work their way down to the natural groundwater level, where they can get into household and commercial wells directly, and eventually end up in streams and ponds.

    Natural Weed Killers

    Two major natural weed killers are salt and vinegar. Dish detergent mixed with vinegar or water also makes a good household weed-killer that is much gentler on the ecosystem than chemical sprays. Try mixing salt and water together in a spray bottle and spraying on weeds. But be warned: you should only use salt where you are not trying to grow anything else. It sterilizes the soil, so its best use is for weeds growing in sidewalks, driveways or between patio stones.

    For a strong weed-killer, pour vinegar directly onto the weed’s roots. Lemon juice has the same effect, but is usually more expensive than vinegar. Some gardeners also swear by a hot pepper sauce like Tabasco for killing weeds.

    If these classics don’t work, you can try boiling a kettle or pot full of water, then taking it out and pouring it right on the weeds, essentially boiling them to death.

    Get Rid of Roots

    Try the natural remedies above in combination with weeding, to cut down on the time-consuming effort of weeding by hand. Spray, let it take effect for a day, then rake or pull up the dying weeds to be sure they stay away. When you weed, you should be sure you’re using a good technique in order to get up the whole root of the weed.

    Don’t settle for pulling up weeds by the stems, as this leaves the root behind to grow again. To avoid back pain, you can always use the trusty hoe to hack apart the roots of the weed and get right underneath it. This works on most weeds, but deep-rooted ones may survive a hoeing and resprout. For these, get a hand rake or hand cultivator and dig the roots right out of the ground.

    And, of course, get weeds when they’re young, if possible. Early weed shoots are more tender and easier to pull.

    Want to learn more about natural weed killing?

    Check out these Web sites chosen by us for more information on the subject.

    The TipNut archive of tried-and-true homemade weed killer recipes is a great resource of information.

    For some sobering reading on herbicides in groundwater, see the U.S. Geological Survey’s study of Midwestern aquifers.

    Organic Gardening magazine has a cheery outlook on weeds and how to control them.

    { 0 comments }

    2010 Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington, DC

    by admin

    cherry blossoms in washington dc

    Springtime, perfect for having picnics, wearing shorts and admiring the Cherry Blossom in DC. The National Cherry Blossom Festival is an two-week (per annum) event that celebrates springtime in Washington, DC as well as the 1912 gift of the cherry blossom trees and the enduring friendship between the people of the United States and Japan.

    DC Attractions include multiple festivals, museums, monuments, and more.  The National Cherry Blossom Festival, Inc., is a 501(c)(3) organization that coordinates, produces, and supports creative and diverse activities promoting traditional and contemporary arts and culture, natural beauty and the environment, and community spirit and youth education.

    It also begins the peak season for an influx of tourists to Washington, also brought in by the thousands of historical landmarks, museums, and other buildings, The National Museum of Crime & Punishment, located in Washington, D.C. is one of those such buildings, with excellent depictions of historically famous crime scenes along detailed information concerning past wars, forensics, organized crime, and more.

    Want to learn more about the Cherry Blossom Festival and its history? They also have an official web site.

    { 0 comments }

    How To Grow Cauliflower

    by libba

    Cauliflower belongs to the Cole, or cabbage, family but isn’t as easy to grow as cabbage. The delicious taste and versatility it provides in your diet is well worth the extra effort; some people even consider cauliflower a delicacy! Cauliflower is a cool-season vegetable that can be planted a week or two before the last frost in early spring. You can also plant in summer for an early fall crop. Taking the time and effort to understand the climate and soil conditions cauliflower does best in– before you plant– will go a long way toward ensuring success in growing this vegetable.

    Growing Cauliflower

    Cauliflower grows best in fertile, well-drained, consistently moist soil. It needs to be planted in full sun (at least 6 hours a day. The optimal pH level for cauliflower is between 6.0 and 7.0. The soil should be high in both organic matter and nitrogen. Cauliflower is finicky about the climate it grows in. Either too much cold or too much heat can affect the quality and quantity of the heads. Because the weather is so difficult to predict, this balancing act can be hard to manage. There may be seasons when your cauliflower produces better than others simply because of the climate.

    Planting Cauliflower

    Good soil preparation is important when planting cauliflower. The best way to determine your soil conditions are to have a soil test performed. Your local university extension office can perform a soil test. To locate your nearest extension office, go to http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/.

    If your soil is lacking in organic matter and/or nitrogen you can add manure or compost to the soil along with a nitrogen fertilizer during planting. Fertilizer can be applied two more times during the growing season at two-week intervals. Make sure the soil is well cultivated to a depth of at least 8-10 inches before planting.

    Cauliflower is usually transplanted from seedlings to the garden. The plants can be purchased from a nursery or garden center. You can also sow the seeds directly into the garden (after the last frost date) or start the seeds indoors about six weeks prior to transplantation.

    Transplant the seedlings 18 inches apart in rows that are 30 inches apart. Water the seedlings immediately after transplanting; any wilting could permanently damage the plant. Another way to ensure a good crop is to choose active, healthy plants that have had continuous, steady growth. Buying plants that have been stunted or in flats for too long are prone to producing poor, or no, curds. After planting, apply a top mulch to preserve moisture and prevent the soil from drying out and cracking.

    Care for Cauliflower

    Cauliflower plants must have consistent moisture; make sure they receive at least an inch of water per week and do not let the soil completely dry out. Healthy curd development results from continuous and vigorous growth. Anything that halts or slows the plant growth will potentially lead to little or no head development. Common interruptions can include too little moisture (drought), plant damage, or extremes in weather.

    Weed your cauliflower plants only when necessary and cultivate lightly so as not to damage the plant or roots.

    How to Blanch Cauliflower

    Cauliflower heads (or curds) need to be blanched. This process involves tying the outer leaves together to cover the curd when the heads have about 2-3 inches of growth. Blanching prevents the heads from damage from the sun, turning green and obtaining an “off” taste. There are varieties that “self-blanch” and naturally curl their leaves to cover and protect the developing head.

    Harvesting Cauliflower

    Depending on the variety planted, cauliflower takes between 50 and 70 days to mature.

    Once the leaves have been blanched, and if growing conditions are good, the curds develop and mature within 7-10 days. Look for full, compact, firm, white heads. To harvest the heads, simply cut the plant at the main stem (leave a few outer leaves for protection) before the heads begin to have a “ricey” appearance; by then they are overly mature and will not taste good. Another sign that your cauliflower is past its prime and will begin to quickly deteriorate is the formation of single florets. After harvesting your crop, you can dispose of the plants in your compost pile, as cauliflower does not usually produce side shoots or a second crop. Cauliflower, like most garden vegetables can be frozen for later consumption. Make sure to blanch them first then place in the freezer immediately after draining and drying.

    Cauliflower diseases and pests

    Some problems you may encounter when growing cauliflower include:

    Imported Cabbage Worm: These are white or yellow “butterflies” that have black spots, and attack cauliflower curds. These pests begin causing trouble in April and continue until September. The butterflies lay eggs on the cauliflower which later hatch into worms which feed on the heads. Covers can be used to prevent this, or insecticides if needed.

    Cabbage Looper: are gray-brown moths with silver markings on its’ wings. They lay eggs on the leaves of the cabbage and feed on the leaves and continue to the heads.

    Diamond back moths: These moths lay eggs on the underside of the leaves close to the veins. The larvae are green and feed on the leaves from the inside out. These moths are grayish-brown and have three diamond shapes on their body, for which they are named after. They originate in the south and migrate to northern states later in the season. Treatment of the Cabbage Looper and Diamond Back moths are similar. You can cover the crop or use an insecticide if necessary. Cleaning up all debris at the end of the season, after harvest and when leaves drop is also important.

    Brown heads: can be caused by downy mildew, or direct sun when water is on the head/curd.

    Varieties of Cauliflower

    Some recommended varieties to try are:

  • Snow Crown
  • Snow King
  • Snowball 123
  • Imperial 10-6
  • Self-Blanche

    • Want to learn more about growing cauliflower?

    The University of Hawaii Extension has extensive information on cauliflower diseases and pests.

    Ohio State University Extension put together a fact sheet about growing cauliflower (and broccoli) in the home garden.

    { 0 comments }

    Why garden organically?

    by admin

    Organic Garden

    These days, more and more individuals are aware of the environmental impact that our non-eco-friendly ways have brought to nature. As such, going organic and eco-friendly are a must if you would like to do your share in helping save the environment.

    Here, we will take a look at the things that you can do if you would like to have an eco-friendly garden which produces organic plants, fruits and flowers as well.

    What Every Gardener Needs to Know about Going Organic

    Basically, your goal in creating an organic garden is to not use any synthetic, chemical or artificial fertilizers to grow the plants or feed the soil. Chemical pesticides and fertilizers are a no-no. What you need to use instead are organic elements to feed the soil. Compost and organic fertilizers are two great ways to improve the quality of the soil, increasing the microbial life.

    You should also make use of methods which will replenish the sources when tending to your organic garden. Let’s have specific examples so that you will have a better idea of what to do. First, you need to have a soil conditioner on your garden. Rather than using synthetic products which are not just harmful to the environment but expensive as well, you can instead use organic matter such as decaying plants, animal waste, food scraps, vegetable peelings and grass clippings.

    In order for you to feed the soil, make sure that you maintain a compost bin. Here, you will have a layer of garden soil which you will top with biodegradable wastes from the kitchen. After adding the waste, you should add another layer of garden soil on the compost bin. After a certain amount of time has passed, you will already have an organic fertilizer which you can use to feed the soil in your garden.

    For pest control, manual checking is the best way to go. However, if it seems impossible to get rid of the pests manually, you can still opt for organic pesticides. Another great method to use is interplanting to prevent your plants from overcrowding each other. Finally, make sure that each individual row of plants are separated from each other with barriers like row covers or sticky strips.

    Nothing beats the feeling of seeing the fruits of your hard labor once your organic garden is already growing – and you’ll have an organic food source, too, if you plant herbs and vegetables.

    Emma Spivey writes for solar bird bath fountain, her personal hobby blog focused on tips to design and eco-friendly garden using solar power.

    { 0 comments }

    How to Grow Lilacs

    by blair

    Lilacs: Colorful, Fragrant, and Easy to Grow

    Lilacs are among the most popular garden plants—and for good reasons. Besides being easy to grow, the variety of plant sizes, flower colors, and bloom times creates a colorful and fragrant display over many weeks in the spring. Once they are established lilac plants can grow for hundreds of years.

    In the United States, lilacs grow best in the northern states because they need a cold period each year. They prefer full sun and well-drained soil that is slightly acid or alkaline. While lilacs need very little care, they do need watering in times of drought.

    Popular Lilac Types

    French lilacs (also called common lilacs) grow about fifteen feet tall in clumps eight to twelve feet wide. They have large clusters of flowers and are available in varieties with pink, white, yellow, purple, bronze, or variegated flowers. Korean lilacs grow eight to ten feet tall in a rounded form with small leaves and extremely fragrant flowers. True to their name, tree lilacs grow into medium-size trees rather than shrubs.

    Pruning Lilacs

    To ensure heavy flowering year after year, remove the flowers after they bloom before they go to seed. Prune out dead branches and suckers in spring after the plants flower. When lilac plants become leggy they need to be pruned. Rather than pruning back the stems, remove about one-third of the oldest and weakest stems at ground level each year for three years. Vigorous new stems will shoot up from the base of the plant.

    Lilac Pests and Diseases

    Lilac borers are the most serious insect pests; they bore small holes in branches a foot or two above the ground. Small brownish-gray bumps on the branches are oyster-shell scale, which can be controlled by removing badly infested stems then spraying with dormant oil. Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that creates whitish blotches on the leaves, usually in late summer, especially when it’s very humid. It’s unsightly but does not harm the lilac plants.

    Lilac Propagation

    Once a lilac bush starts to spread you can create new bushes by making a vertical cut with a spade and separating off clumps with several stems each. The new plants will bloom in four or five years.

    Want to learn more about growing lilacs?

    If you live in the north and have sun and well-drained soil, you will have great success growing lilacs. In warmer areas look for varieties that are suited to your climate. Learn more about growing lilacs at these sites:

    Find out about lilacs and lilac celebrations at the Arnold Arboretum, where over 400 lilac plants grow.

    Join other lilac enthusiasts in the International Lilac Society.

    Learn how to prune lilacs.

    Lynne Lamstein gardens in Maine and Florida and is currently working on a sustainable landscape. She has a degree in ornamental horticulture from Temple University.

    { 0 comments }

    Growing Potatoes in Your Vegetable Garden

    by libba

    Growing potatoes in your vegetable garden

    Potatoes are a year-round staple for many families around the world. Potatoes come in over a hundred varietals in all kinds of sizes, shapes, colors and flavors. There is a potato to suit almost everyone’s taste. The edible part of a potato, the tuber, grows underground and is a part of the stem system. The leaves, stems and flowers that grow above ground cannot be eaten. Potatoes are a cool-season crop and varieties can be planted that you can enjoy nearly all season long.

    Soil conditions for growing potatoes

    Potatoes aren’t as finicky as many vegetables when it comes to soil conditions, but they do best in well-drained, fertile soil. Compact soil can be especially problematic for potatoes. The soil pH level should be 5.0 to 5.5 for best crop production. Do not add large amounts of organic matter to the soil as it may contribute to potato scab, a disease that frequently infects potatoes. As a cool season vegetable, potatoes can tolerate a few light frosts and actually need cooler soil temperatures (between 60-to 70 degrees) to properly mature and form tubers. If the soil temperatures rise to over 80 degrees, you will probably see little, if any, tuber formation.

    How to Plant Potatoes

    Potatoes will be one of the first vegetables you can plant in the spring. To determine when you can plant, find out your areas last frost date (go to: http://boldweb.com/gw/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=28&Itemid=25 ). Potatoes are not started from seed or seedlings but from cut pieces of seed potatoes. Do not use potatoes from the grocery store because these have usually been sprayed to inhibit eye growth. Additionally, do not use potatoes from an earlier crop, as they may contain unknown diseases that could infect your new crop.

    You should buy certified seed potatoes that are found in garden centers or nurseries. If the potato is whole and large, cut it into approximately 2 inch pieces; each piece needs to have at least one eye. After cutting, you need to let the pieces sit for a couple of days in a cool, humid location. This will give the potato time to heal, or form a scab over it, which protects it from rotting when planted in the ground. If you buy small seed potatoes, you do not need to cut them prior to planting. When getting ready to plant your potatoes use a spade to hoe a small trench, or furrow, about 4 inches deep and as long as your space allows. You can work in an all-purpose fertilizer into the soil prior to planting.

    Place one potato piece at the bottom of the trench with the eye facing upward. The eye will sprout and become the plant. Spacing should be about 10-12 inches apart. Rows should be between 2 to 3 feet apart from each other.

    How to Take Care of Potato Plants

    Potatoes do well in consistently moist (not wet) soil. They should receive about an inch to an inch and a half of water per week. If they do not receive adequate moisture from rainfall, you will need to hand water them. After your potato plants start to grow, you can add some soil, mulch, or straw around the base of the plant to form a hill. This will encourage new tuber growth and can help to prevent green potatoes.

    Potato Pests

    Potato Leafhopper

    Potato leafhoppers are wedge-shaped, 1/8-inch long, green, active insects. They use their piercing-sucking mouthparts to remove sap from the potato leaf. These small insects fly readily.

    Because of their small size and habit of feeding on the underside of the leaf, they are easily overlooked. The symptom of leafhopper activity is more apparent – a triangular brown spot at the tip of the leaf. Similar triangles may appear at the end of each lateral veinlet or the entire margin may roll upward as though scorched. These symptoms are known as “hopperburn”. Other conditions may produce similar symptoms. Check the underside of leaves for the tiny leafhoppers to confirm that they are the cause of the problem [1,1].

    An insecticide may need to be used for these pests.

    Flea beetles

    Flea beetles are small usually black beetles that are often difficult to spot due to their size and their inclination to quickly jump away when disturbed. These pests chew holes through the leaves of plants. When present in large numbers they can cause the plant leaves to wilt and decreased crop production.

    Harvesting and storage of Potatoes

    Traditionally, potatoes are harvested in the fall, or about 90-120 days after planting. An outward sign that your potatoes are ready to harvest is when the entire above-ground plant is brown and dried out; it will look like it is dead. If you are unsure if the potatoes are ready for harvesting, you can check one plant by digging up the tubers with a pitchfork to see if they are mature.

    When you are harvesting your potatoes, be careful not to pierce the potatoes with the fork; these damaged potatoes will not keep (you can eat them for dinner that night!) Using either a pitchfork or a shovel is the easiest way to gather the potatoes.
    Potatoes can be stored throughout the winter months if kept in a very cool (30s or 40s), humid and dark place.

    Want to learn more about growing potatoes?

    To learn more about growing potatoes in your home garden, visit the Ohio State University Extension fact sheet about Growing Potatoes in the Home Garden.

    Read more about potato problems from the University of North Dakota’s website .

    { 0 comments }

    Weeds 101: Effective Ways to Prevent Weeds

    by admin

    turtle eats lawn weeds

    Those pesky weeds. As sure as the days will get longer and the weather will get warmer, the presence of weeds will return, posing a challenge for homeowners to maintain the perfect lawn. So how do you eliminate weeds without the backbreaking effort of pulling them or with chemicals that can smell and harm the environment and your pets? Start early and start small, when the weeds are small anyway, and you’ll save a lot of effort. There’s plenty you can do outside as soon as the ground is cleared of the snow and the sun is shining.

    First, what is a weed? A weed is a plant growing where it is not wanted. A plant can be a weed in some circumstances and not in others. Let’s just deal with plants that we all would recognize as a weed.

    These are the most common in the Midwest: Wild Mustard, Musk or Nodding Thistle, Oxeye Daisy, Poison Hemlock, Wild Carrot, Purple Loosestrife, Wild Parsnip, Mile-a-minute weed, Russian Thistle, Cressleaf Groundsel, Shattercane, Johnson Grass, Grapevines, Canada Thistle.

    When you are preparing for lawn care season, start with prevention. Add or refresh your mulch. It’s likely that mulch is your primary weed inhibitor. Paying attention to it early helps avoid weeds that would otherwise normally get a foot hold. Be cautious about mulching around perennials and bulbs, where you probably should open the mulch up over the roots as soon as weather is not likely to freeze so you can warm up the soil and the plant will come out. The mulch does its’ insulation job well and will keep the soil cold/frozen and delay the emergence.

    Remember, you can use mini-cultivators or similar garden tools to refresh the mulch earlier on, and then add to the mulch later. Not only will your mulch look better earlier, but it also will be more effective, and you’ll need to add less to the existing mulch later on.

    But, if you let it go, or if the weeds were established from the previous year, you’ll have to do more work.

    Let’s group the weeds into where we are likely to find them:

    Early spring weeds – Common Chickweed, Corn Speedwell, Common Chickweed

    Lawn weeds – Crabgrass, Clover, Yellow Nut Sedge

    Garden weeds: Lamb’s Quarter, Galinsoga

    Annuals and perennials require different control techniques. With annuals, prevent seed production. With perennials, kill rhizomes/stolons/roots. Remember, when controlling annuals, hoe shallow and hoe often. The mini-cultivators really help accomplish this. Mulch and ground covers help, too, but you will still need to keep an eye on weeds to pull.

    Effective weed pulling is an art. Never let the plant go to seed before pulling. It is best is to pull the plant as soon as you see it emerge. Other techniques are selective chemicals that terminate a specific weed or weed family. When using chemicals, make sure you correctly identify the weed and ensure that the chemical won’t kill the surrounding plants that you want to keep. In addition, chemicals frequently fail because of these factors: wrong time of plant growth cycle, wrong weather conditions, wrong soil conditions and type, and weed resistance to herbicides.

    A new product, the NatureZap, uses heat energy to kill weeds. Others use propane, which is not exactly beneficial from a greenhouse perspective, but nonetheless can be effective. Be careful not to choose the open flame type. Stick to ones with an infrared heater. The NatureZap example uses clean electricity to kill a specific weed without killing the surrounding plants.

    The trick to controlling weeds is frequency. Eliminate the weeds as they appear and you will have an easier time keeping your yard tidy.

    Jon Jackson, founder and president of Global Neighbor Inc., has an affinity for creating innovative lawn care products that are friendly to the environment. He created the NatureCut®, a battery-operated alternative to traditional fossil-fuel lawn mowers, in 2006 and in 2008 debuted the NatureZap®, an electric weed elimination tool that uses heat to kill weeds at the root. In January 2010, he introduced the next generation NatureZap model.

    { 0 comments }

    ← Previous Entries